Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Side Quest (Olongapo City)

I leave Manila for a few days, heading out west to Olongapo City.  OC presses like a desperate lover against against the former U.S. Naval Base of Subic Bay.  Subic was shut down during the Clinton-driven base closures in the 90s, but Olongapo is sitll defined culturally and structurally by its relationship to Subic base.  It's a cultural ghost-town, a chaotic, messy and bustling ghost-town.  I get a room on Magsaysay Avenue - a neon-fringed strip of bad restaurants, casinos and karaoke-hooker bars.  It's an economy designed to ply dollars from the pockets of sailors.  But there are no sailors here anymore.  I'm not sure who IS here anymore.  The streets are full of people, but they are all Filipinos.  I pper into some of the sad bars and it they seem nearly devoid of life.  Only the staff pass the hours singing flat notes in an endless stream of synthesized, outdated American ballads. 
My environs are depressing, so I quickly get to my task.  I am here at the request of a dear friend of mine who I will call Francis.  He was born in Olongapo and his mother turned him over to an orphanage's care.  He stayed with the orphanage until the age of seven when he was adopted by an American family.   A week before I left for Asia, Francis and I sat over two many glasses of wine.  He asked me to try to find his birth-mother and I promised I would try my best.  So I'm here with a copy of his birth certificate, the name of his birth mother, and a message should I find her.

I start by visiting the orphanage.  I meet with Merle, the woman who runs the place.  She's an elderly woman, small even by Filipino standards.  She's slow-moving and strong willed with an expansive and precise memory and a penchant for rambling stories.  She remembers Francis readily.  She recalls him as a husky child who loved playing soccer and eating doughnuts.  She tells me that after Sunday services, he would sneak between two church receptions to sample the goods.  Although they were Protestant, he was convinced the Catholic doughnuts were better.  I sit with her for an hour before I bring up my task.  She frowns.

"I'm sorry, but I can't give you any information.  I have to respect privacy.  If Francis were here, maybe I could help him look for her," she tells me.  Her wish that Francis had come himself will be a theme throughout our discussion.  She repeatedly asks me why he hasn't contacted her and I can only give half-assed excuses.  I know that his experience at the orphanage wasn't all positive, but that's not my place to say.  How do you explain to Grandma why her "grandson" isn't calling? 

"I already have her name. I have a copy of the birth certificate," I tell her.

Over the course of another hour we go back and forth in a slow game of verbal chess involving small talk and stories.  I am able to extract a few details.  As we expected, Francis's mother "worked in the clubs" in Olongapo.  When she got pregnant she approached the orphanage.  This was her first child (she doesn't know if any followed afteward).  After Francis was born, the mother was never heard from again.  She would be 55 today - Merle doesn't know if she's still alive.  I thank Merle for her time and leave a gift of some money and school supplies.

I'm stumped but I'm not out of the game.  When I told a friend back home about my "quest", he said, "If anyone can do it you will.  You're like the Filipino Nancy Drew!"

Nancy Drunanan?

Nancy Druhaylungsud!

I put on a pleated plaid skirt and sensible shoes and head over to the Olongapo City Hall.  I start by trying to see if there is a death certificate.  The woman who works the desk is a stone wall with a pleasant smile.  I state my case ans she won't budge.  She tells me that I'm not a family member, and the information isn't public.  Okay.  How can I find out if it's there?  She's a civil servant in a third world bureaucracy, afterall.

"Miss, is there a special fee that I can pay to find out if her name is there?"

"No."

"Maybe 1000 pesos?" ($20)

Silence.

"Maybe 1500 pesos?"

"No."

I've hit my Waterloo, and it's a chubby fair-skinned woman named Carmen.  I have some other ideas, but I decide to stop.  I realize, especially through my conversations with Merle, that this is not my quest.  I had seized this opportunity partly because I care about Francis, but also because its something tangible, something clear and something useful at a time in my life when I'm missing all of these.  When I left the U.S. many of my friends said - I hope you find what you are looking for.  Well I don't exactly know what I'm looking for.  Francis's mother was a great substitute for the wandering, introspection, and well, the work I need to do that is really, really hard. 

I pack up my bag and take a jeepney heading north. 


Mrs. Merle






Monday, May 17, 2010

Video Blog - Monday Morning Manila

Monday Morning in Manila

Notice that it's only 8:30am, but I'm sweating.  It's already 86 degrees F, and it will climb to 96 later.

Also, notice that the bags under my eyes now look like coin purses.  I'm still not sleeping well.  Although they are convenient for carrying change, my mobile phone and iPod.

Sunday, May 16, 2010

Hong Kong Calm




(Penned in Hong Kong - May 13)

There's a wild wild whisper blowin' in the wind,
Callin' out my name like a long lost friend. 
- "American Honey,"  Lady Antebellum

Hong Kong is a city of speed: a world commerce hub, the finance center of the universe.  It makes sense that this city created Jackie Chan, and the cultural obsession is horse races.  The opium langor of colonial control was long ago jettisoned for a methamphetamined fix of modern commerce.   Money moves this city and this city MOVES!  Hong Kong hustles on the feet of Prada-shod youth who guzzle Châteauneuf-du-Pape at exclusive parties in glitzy restaurant-clubs.  Chi-yuppy men wear long fingernails and loud labels to signify the new upper class.  The bustle moves double time to the rapid ring of a global cash register. 

And while I see this all around me - that is not my Hong Kong.

I start my Asian journey visiting with my high school classmate Malia and her delightful family.  I've always related to Malia.  We are both intense, passionate and disciplined.  We are both distance runners, we both played sweeper for our high school soccer teams, and we both think her husband Peter is a Class "A" Hottie.  They live with their seven year old son and four year old daughter in Pok Fu Lam near the University of Hong Kong.  My favorite activity is to jump in a taxi and yell "PAHK FOO LUUUUM!" to the driver, because its Cantonese and Cantonese speakers won't understand you if you're not yelling.   My days with them are spent idling, hiking, eating and playing with the kids.  The last year has been quite difficult for me at work.  This is the first time in months that I've felt relaxed and at ease.  I wake up in the morning and as soon as I emerge from my room, Catherine, their hired help, spots me and starts the coffee.  Malia and I go hiking out of her backyard and up the trails of Pok Fu Lam and up to Victoria Peak.  This is a famous landmark in Hong Kong because of its sweeping view of the city.   Unfortunately, there's a dense fog covering the mountain top so we aren't even able to see 10 meters downhill.


This is the view we are supposed to see. 


This is what we saw.


But we make a pretty good view ourselves. 


I adore the kids.  They are beautiful and intense in very different ways.  Their son (I prefer not to post kids' names on the internet) is observant and slightly reserved, yet affectionate, compassionate and possessing a wisdom beyond his 7 years.  Their daughter has a fiery personality matching the brilliant shock of red hair on her head.  She's extroverted, playful and temperamental - which is why we totally get each other and become fast friends.  Spending time with Malia and her family is grounding for me in two critical ways.  First, Malia carries a piece of my past.  Before coming to Asia, I had felt knocked off of my game.  I haven't felt like me in months.  There's nothing like an old friend to help remind you who you are.  I've never been to Hong Kong before, but it felt like home.  Second, my partner Chris and I were in the middle of trying to become adoptive parents, when I suddenly realized that I wasn't happy and that I didn't want to start parenting in a state of crisis.  Being with the kids in Hong Kong is confirming for me.  I do need to figure some things out.  I do need to take time to figure out the next steps in my life.  And then I do want to start a family with Chris.  This is not Eat Pray Love.  I'm coming home - hopefully in an easier, clearer and more open space.  When this journey ends, I hope the journey of fatherhood will begin.


Getting foot massages and reading trashy magazines.  The neck pillows were warm and smelled like cinnamon. 














Next stop - Manila

Wednesday, May 12, 2010

The Things I Carry




My cousin June’s bag. It’s the backpack for the over 35 traveler – she said, which means it has wheels and a pullout handle but no shoulder straps.  It holds all I need for the next few months, including June’s love and wisdom.  She’s gone there and back again many times with this bag.  And so will I. 

2 peanut butter and guava jelly sandwiches

2 bags of trail mix

12 Luna bars

A single pair of shoes. 
Me:  I’m going to Asia for a few months and I’m only going to bring one pair of shoes. 
Shoe Store Gay Boy:  Gasp!  Why would you do that to yourself?!
Me:  I need a pair that are sturdy enough for the trail and cute enough for a night club.
SSGB:  Clasps hands Hmmmm… A challenge!
They’re Adidas, hardy, attractive and they match June’s bag.

Two outfits: Jeans and a shirt, shorts and a shirt, 4 pairs socks, 3 underwear.  Everything matches.  All dark colors to conceal dirt.  My ass looks great in everything. 

Rubber slippers that Mini bought for me in Brazil.  They aren’t my best pair of flip-flops, but saying goodbye to him was one of the hardest.  I wanted a memento of him with me.   

Joe Griss’s rain jacket.  It’s monsoon season here.   The jacket breathes and folds into the size of a tennis ball.  And I like the idea that Mini will be protecting my feet, and Joe will be protecting my head.

My mother’s worries and prayers

A brand new iPod.  Last week my iPod was stolen by a lesbian midget with Heidi-style braids.  Against my protestations, my friend Scott Hunt bought me a new one immediately.  On the back he inscribed, “Loss is just an opportunity for a new beginning.”  Which is a much better inscription than, “Beware of lesbian midgets with outdated hairstyles.”

Four bottles of wine

Sunglasses

Immodium.  Lots of immodium. 

Sleeping pills.  I have not slept regularly in the last two months.  It feels like my brain won’t shut down at night – even when I’m exhausted.  I hope that somewhere in the 7,000 islands of the Philippines, easy sleep is waiting for me. 

A woman’s name, listed as “mother” on a birth certificate.  The address where a good friend of mine was born.  A message if I find the woman.    

3 pairs of swimwear.  I may be roughing it, but I am damn well gonna look cute on the beach. 

Mosquito repellant

70 SPF sunscreen

A pen and a new journal.  Thanks Melanie and Vicki who advised me – Don’t get a new job yet.  Get the space and time and write, write, write.  You’ve only scratched the surface of your potential.

Chris’s camera.  I usually destroy one piece of his electronic equipment per trip.  We’ll see how I do this time. 

The well wishes and care of a hundred friends

The relief that the difficulty of the last year is behind me

Chris’s love and support.  His patience in dealing with me.  His understanding that sometimes I need to do things my own way.   His openness to putting our dreams on hold for a bit so that I can figure out what my dreams are right now.

A couple of ideas, but no real plans

A sense of possibility

A sense of humor

A sense of adventure


Friday, May 7, 2010

Here I Go Again (on my own)

It’s time to hit the roads (and rivers, rails and skyways again).  I’ve been doing a lot of traveling lately, but I haven’t been doing a lot of journeying.  I missed it and I was missing part of me.  The last year at work has been difficult.  I’d lost a bit of the spring in my step – not just at my job but in many areas of my life.  I was starting to resign myself to the ordinary.  So it’s time find my verve again.  If I really want to make impact in the world, I have to operate from a place of deep conviction, passion and curiosity.  I know I embody those things when I travel alone.  So I’m off to find new adventures, and the me that I love when I’m experiencing life like this.
I fly to Hong Kong for a few days then to the Philippines for a month.  Afterward – I’m not fully sure.  I have some adventures planned – I will volunteer at an orphanage in the Philippines, do some work with a Cambodian non-profit that uses soccer to teach kids about the dangers of land-mines, and help an adoptee friend try to find his birth mother.  But for a lot of my trip, I’ll be figuring it out on the fly and go where the wind goes.