Sunday, May 16, 2010

Hong Kong Calm




(Penned in Hong Kong - May 13)

There's a wild wild whisper blowin' in the wind,
Callin' out my name like a long lost friend. 
- "American Honey,"  Lady Antebellum

Hong Kong is a city of speed: a world commerce hub, the finance center of the universe.  It makes sense that this city created Jackie Chan, and the cultural obsession is horse races.  The opium langor of colonial control was long ago jettisoned for a methamphetamined fix of modern commerce.   Money moves this city and this city MOVES!  Hong Kong hustles on the feet of Prada-shod youth who guzzle Châteauneuf-du-Pape at exclusive parties in glitzy restaurant-clubs.  Chi-yuppy men wear long fingernails and loud labels to signify the new upper class.  The bustle moves double time to the rapid ring of a global cash register. 

And while I see this all around me - that is not my Hong Kong.

I start my Asian journey visiting with my high school classmate Malia and her delightful family.  I've always related to Malia.  We are both intense, passionate and disciplined.  We are both distance runners, we both played sweeper for our high school soccer teams, and we both think her husband Peter is a Class "A" Hottie.  They live with their seven year old son and four year old daughter in Pok Fu Lam near the University of Hong Kong.  My favorite activity is to jump in a taxi and yell "PAHK FOO LUUUUM!" to the driver, because its Cantonese and Cantonese speakers won't understand you if you're not yelling.   My days with them are spent idling, hiking, eating and playing with the kids.  The last year has been quite difficult for me at work.  This is the first time in months that I've felt relaxed and at ease.  I wake up in the morning and as soon as I emerge from my room, Catherine, their hired help, spots me and starts the coffee.  Malia and I go hiking out of her backyard and up the trails of Pok Fu Lam and up to Victoria Peak.  This is a famous landmark in Hong Kong because of its sweeping view of the city.   Unfortunately, there's a dense fog covering the mountain top so we aren't even able to see 10 meters downhill.


This is the view we are supposed to see. 


This is what we saw.


But we make a pretty good view ourselves. 


I adore the kids.  They are beautiful and intense in very different ways.  Their son (I prefer not to post kids' names on the internet) is observant and slightly reserved, yet affectionate, compassionate and possessing a wisdom beyond his 7 years.  Their daughter has a fiery personality matching the brilliant shock of red hair on her head.  She's extroverted, playful and temperamental - which is why we totally get each other and become fast friends.  Spending time with Malia and her family is grounding for me in two critical ways.  First, Malia carries a piece of my past.  Before coming to Asia, I had felt knocked off of my game.  I haven't felt like me in months.  There's nothing like an old friend to help remind you who you are.  I've never been to Hong Kong before, but it felt like home.  Second, my partner Chris and I were in the middle of trying to become adoptive parents, when I suddenly realized that I wasn't happy and that I didn't want to start parenting in a state of crisis.  Being with the kids in Hong Kong is confirming for me.  I do need to figure some things out.  I do need to take time to figure out the next steps in my life.  And then I do want to start a family with Chris.  This is not Eat Pray Love.  I'm coming home - hopefully in an easier, clearer and more open space.  When this journey ends, I hope the journey of fatherhood will begin.


Getting foot massages and reading trashy magazines.  The neck pillows were warm and smelled like cinnamon. 














Next stop - Manila

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